While some people may be content to stick to Italy’s extensive rail network to get around the country, using Italian buses when the train isn’t an option, others prefer the independence that having their own car provides.
Renting a car in Italy is a particularly good idea if you’re planning the kind of vacation where taking wrong turns and getting really lost is considered a good day, but it’s also just a practical way to get around the country if you’re traveling in a group or as a family with your kids. It can be cost-effective if you can spread the costs among your group, and parents have an easier time of schlepping all the kids’ stuff around if they’ve got a trunk to do it in. Having your own car becomes more of a “must-have” than a luxury if you’re staying in a rented villa or an agriturismo that’s really out in the country.
But before you hit the road, there are some things you’ll need to know about driving in Italy.
Do I need an international driver’s license in Italy?
This is the first thing you need to know, because you’ll need to answer this question before you leave home. The short answer is yes, Italy does require foreign drivers to carry an international driver’s license when they’re driving in Italy. It’s officially called an “International Driving Permit,” and it’s a translated form of your actual driver’s license - so you’ve got to bring that along, too.In reality, I’ve not always bothered to get the international driver’s license before renting a car in Italy, and I know several people who have never bothered. But even though the rental car agency isn’t going to ask you if you’ve got one (or refuse to rent you a car if you don’t), it’s a good idea to get it anyway. Should you get stopped by the police, you’ll be sweating fewer bullets if you’ve got your paperwork in order.
What are the different kinds of roads in Italy?
Just like everywhere else, there are different types of roads in Italy - from big multi-lane highways to small and winding gravel country roads. There are only a couple types of roads in Italy which have general names. The rest are going to be referred to by their number or individual name.
The one you’ve probably heard of is the biggest kind of road - the Autostrada (or Autostrade, in the plural). It’s akin to the biggest highway network in any country, and it’s probably going to be the fastest way to get between big cities in Italy. Almost all of the Autostrade are, however, toll roads - so it’s not necessarily the cheapest route. On Italian driving maps, you’ll see the Autostrade marked as A roads - A1, A14, A29, etc. Note that they sometimes overlap with E roads, so that one stretch of road will be labeled with both an A number and an E number.
Some of the smallest roads in Italy are shown on maps made by Touring Club Italiano (the Italian equivalent of the AAA) as white lines, so these are known in Italy as “white roads” or strade bianche. These white roads are really small, and very rarely paved. In fact, they’re known as great roads for walking on because of how few cars pass by! Unless you’re really taking some wrong turns (or your agriturismo is on a white road), you probably won’t drive on these. Between these two extremes, there are two other general groups for roads - major roads and minor roads. Some major roads have more than one lane going in each direction, and most minor roads have only one lane going in each direction. Most major roads aren’t terribly windy and are still relatively good at getting you quickly from place to place. Most minor roads are going to be a bit more meandering and will give you what you could call the scenic route. You may very well drive from one to the other of these types and back again without realizing it.
What are the other driving laws in Italy?
No matter what you’re used to doing at home, the idea of the left lane being used strictly for passing is much more adhered to in Italy. If you’re just cruising along, get into the right lane. Pass on the left, and then get back into the right lane. Additionally, in Italy they keep their directional signal on while they’re passing and don’t turn it off until they’re moving back into the right lane - this indicates that they’re just going to be using the left lane for passing, and won’t hang out there. All cars are required to have their headlights on at all times while driving, day or night. Seat belts must be worn at all times. Mobile phones may only be used with a headset or hands-free device. All cars must have “safety vests” in the car - those reflective vests - in case you need to pull over on the road and get out of the car. They’re mandatory in several European countries now, and if you’re renting a car make sure the vests are in the car before you drive away from the rental car agency. Also, put the vests in the car itself, not in the trunk - the idea is you put them on before you get out of the car in an emergency situation, so having them in the trunk may not be considered in compliance with the law. Italy’s drunk-driving laws are very strict - don’t drink and drive!
What do I need to know about parking in Italy?
Parking in Italy may be one of the biggest mysteries to visitors - although I’m not sure the Italians understand it much better. If they do, they almost make a game of ignoring the rules or just creatively skirting them.
Italian Notebook shared the story of a few residents of one street in Rome just repainting parking lines after the street painters had left to keep their parking situation as it had been. I photographed some of the creative parking in Milan, including someone using the middle of a pedestrian crossing in the middle of the street as a parking space. And in Liguria, Wandering Italy notes that the local superstition is that when you drive into town you should rub your own buttocks - “with sincerity” - and you’ll find a parking space. Having said all of that, if you want to know about the particular parking rules in Italy - what the colored lines on the streets mean, and how to pay for the paid parking spaces - then this overview at SlowTravel Italy is a good place to start.